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My phone rings and it is Art Robledo, vineyard manager extraordinaire, “Kevin; O’neel sold” I barely hear through the bad connection. “WHAT!?” is the only response I can come up with, “yeah, my lease was canceled, all contracts are off”. And thus begins the nightmare of every winemaker that does not own land. You see, Art was leasing the land so when it sold, he was out and so was I. Here was the anchor for The NPA, a beautiful organic Sauvignon blanc vineyard in the Russian River Valley farmed by one of the best. SB in cool climate was an anomaly, having Art lease and farm the land was lucky and having it be organic was just plain ridiculous. I hang up the phone and a string of obscenities echos through the cellar.
Here we are, a little more than a month left before harvest. It is late in the game to source fruit, any fruit. Let alone my requirements of farming responsibly without chemicals, a diverse property that nurtures biodiversity, stunning soil and vines, and a price point that allows your average person to enjoy a bottle on a Tuesday night. Yep, I was screwed.
I would let the thoughts of moving cheese while taking baby steps through doors that randomly open and close plague my sleep. Now was the time to make the phone call, over and over. “totally sucks, I loved that fruit. Yeah you know what I like, let me know if you hear of anything.”
That was followed by days of many conversations that would start on a high “you’ve got 25 year old Tocai Friulano!” and end quickly “yeah, the round up kinda knocks you out of the organic camp.”
Then came another call that would no doubt follow the same progression. “Hi Kevin, I have some Sauvignon blanc that just became available.” Here we go, ask the chemical question first to make this short I was thinking but then, “Pat Rodgers said I should give you a call”. Wow, big point there, Pat farms the Biodynamic Sun Hawk Farms for the NPA. Please go on!
And she did with one magical word after another. The vines were planted in ’69, and have been organic since the beginning. They have been dry farming this rocky bench land property in Redwood Valley for 23 years and were certified by CCOF in 1990. They have 25 acres 10 of which are untouched oak woodland.
Enough said, I will be out in two days for a visit.
During the visit the chickens were out in force, I gave up counting jack rabbits, and discovered a blue belly lizard living in the trunk of one of the gnarled old vines. The vines were even planted around a redwood and an old walnut tree. Around the perimeter of the vines you could find plum, walnut and apple trees along with the family vegetable garden complete with active bee hives.
John and Jan Upton have been farming this land for 23 years and their love and respect shine through in every aspect.
Add to this Super Chavez with some of the best tacos in the state en-route and you have a winner. Somehow through luck or fate, I have found a new anchor for The NPA.